Fondazione Montagna Sicura - Courmayeur
Giornate prevalentemente soleggiate ma all'insegna di un calo delle attività alpinistiche nei diversi settori della valle, con conseguente scarso ritorno di informazioni, inoltre molti rifugi chiudono questo fine settimana. Ancora abbastanza frequentate le vie classiche della zona del Monte Rosa, i ghiacciai sono ancora in condizioni corrette, con alcuni passaggi delicati. Zona Monte Bianco, piuttosto crepacciata la traversata Helbronner-Midi, frequentata la Tour Ronde, condizioni mediocri e con il ritorno del caldo da prevedere scarica nel canale, traversata Aiguilles d'Entréves e Marbrée nulla da segnalare, alcune cordate al Dente del Gigante e cresta di Rochefort. Monte Cervino, si sta salendo in questi giorni con uso dei ramponi.
Fondazione Montagna Sicura - Courmayeur
Al seguito della perturbazione che ha portato precipitazioni diffuse (con spolverata di neve in quota) nel fine settimana, la Valle d'Aosta è interessata da correnti occidentali. Tale flusso atlantico persisterà probabilmente almeno fino a giovedì, portando condizioni in prevalenza soleggiate, con temporanei addensamenti in particolare sui rilievi di confine. Zero termico: 3500 m Questa mattina a Punta Helbronner temperatura +1°, vento moderato da nord-ovest e nevischio.
Fondazione Montagna Sicura - Courmayeur
Air currents from the west mean fairly sunny weather in this region with some high clouds and occasional cover. Compared to our last update, the temperatures in the mountains are now lower (freezing at 3800m) resulting in good re-freezing conditions.
Monte Rosa: all the main routes are very busy, with various rope-ways on Gnifetti, Castore and Dufour. The ridge trails and the crossings are in good condition; rope trails on the Parrot-Balmerhorn crossing, some delicate sections on the Parrot crest (particularly the western part is sharp edged) and on the final rocks of Corno Nero, while the steep snowy slope is all good. Also the Piramide Vincent is busy.
Mont Blanc: various rope trails on the rock climbs to the Satellite, which are sometimes difficult to approach due to holes in the glacier and with open ends. Mont Blanc du Tacul: some problems on the sharp and very busy Midi ridge, hard to get across the end and the serac crossing (equipped for abseiling).
Various rope trails also at Rochefort, Dente del Gigante, while Aiguilles d'Entréves and the Aiguille Marbrée ridge have been crossed.
Fondazione Montagna Sicura - Courmayeur
Information in real time. Mont Blanc: in Val Vény, light snow and wind from moderate to strong, but forecast to reduce with mainly sunny weather over the next few days. From Monziono, some rope parties are ready to climb the Innominata, the Brouillard and the Aiguille Blanche from Eccles. From Rifugio Borelli, a party has left today for the Integrale, last climb on the southern ridge of the Noire on 23rd with correct conditions, while the descent is still rather fragile. The Refuge closes tomorrow while the winter part remains open and has gas and water available. Mont Blanc from Rifugio Gonella: it is now not possible to climb from the Dôme, while the climb from Aiguilles Grises is still viable. Mont Blanc has been climbed from Cosmiques, delicate passage to Tacul because a large hole has opened and the crossing of the serac is more difficult.
Fondazione Montagna Sicura - Courmayeur
Un promontorio anticiclonico mediterraneo continua a determinare l'afflusso di correnti calde e relativamente secche verso le regioni alpine favorendo giornate prevalentemente soleggiate e calde. Zero termico intorno a 4300m: Il gran caldodi questi giorni va compromettendo le condizioni delle vie di neve, pessime condizioni di gelo, canali ed attraversamenti sottostanti ormai insicuri a causa delle frequenti scariche. Attenzione alle temperature, si raccomanda di essere scrupolosi nel rispetto degli orari e nella valutazione delle condizioni sul posto. Monte Bianco, salita ieri la Bonatti al Gran Capucin, la terminale si passa bene, pericoloso ormai il canale per arrivare all'attacco degli Svizzeri. Salito anche il Pilier Gervasutti, evitare l'uscita sopra il canale, preferire uscita sulla Torre Rossa. Traversata Aiguilles Marbrées, fattibile ma non si escludono scariche nelle ore più calde, delle due doppie attrezzate per le calate ne resta una sola, Aiguille d'Entréves, in fondo alla cresta per scendere sul ghiacciaio preferibile aggirare a sinistra, il ghiacciaio è ancora in condizioni corrette per la stagione, inevitabilmente si sta aprendo qualche buco. Monte Rosa, tutte le vie sono ancora fattibili prestando attenzione a qualche passaggio delicato causa buchi un pò più aperti e ponti fragili. Salite in questi giorni la Giordani, il Balmerhorn, la Capanna Margherita, il Castore. Traversata del Lyskam ottima traccia, esce un pò di ghiaccio sulla spalla orientale. Cervino, via italiana in buone condizioni, salita anche ieri, si mettono i ramponi sopra la parete verticale della Grande Corde fino al Colle Félicité.Punta Cian fattibile senza particolari problemi.
Fondazione Montagna Sicura - Courmayeur
After a momentary cloudy front, the consolidating of the anticyclone should continue to mean sunny and sultry weather for the next few days. Maximum temperatures are rising, with freezing at 4000 - 4200m.Mont Blanc: Monzino sector - as always, it is recommended to go to the Rifugio to get further information about the conditions from the owner (who is an Alpine guide) and to check on people for the Eccles. At the moment, with high temperatures and the freezing level at a high altitude, it is essential to comply with the times given and to be extremely careful when crossing the glaciers and canals. Access to the Eccles camps, in the first part of the ice, there are discharges from Punta Innominata, while in the upper part of the glacier some holes are opening. Punta Innominata is dry and in good condition; danger of falling rocks in the rappel descent. Peuterey ridge has been climbed recently by 8 rope parties and is in excellent condition; the Freney glacier has been crossed to Craveri camp and is all good; same conditions for the Brouillard ridge; the Innominata ridge has been climbed and is in good condition; the Integrale al Bianco has been done in the last few days; the Pilone Centrale was climbed by a rope party a couple of days ago; also Pilastro Rosso is climbable. Borelli sector: excellent conditions for the southern ridge of Aiguille Noire. Dalmazzi sector: climbing good everywhere. Aiguille d'Entreves has been crossed, several rope parties; be careful in the warmer part of the day about falling rocks. Tour Ronde, East ridge: the end does not have any particular problems, but the descent along the canal of the normal route is to be avoided because there is no snow and it is all rock debris. Mont Blanc from Gonella: the crevasses are opening up a bit more. The crossing route has been repositioned. Mont Blanc from Cosmiques: good track, still easy to get through Tacul.
Fondazione Montagna Sicura - Courmayeur
Monte Bianco, salita alla Gengiva e cresta di Rochefort ottime condizioni, traversata al bivacco Canzio ottime condizioni, , traversata ovest Jorasses molto buone con uso frequente di ramponi,, normale alle Jorasses in condizioni molto buone la parte alta, discreto il ghiacciaio in basso.
Fondazione Montagna Sicura - Courmayeur
An anticyclone extending into central Europe has brought about sunny weather. From tomorrow, however, a front will be approaching with a trough from the north Atlantic bearing down on the European coasts, together with the passage of a low pressure area over central Italy, will lead to a fall in temperatures and general instability. Sunday will see the arrival of possibly even heavy storms, particularly in mountainous areas, with gusting winds. All the mountain areas of the Aosta Valley are very busy. Mont Blanc: the normal route to Grandes Joresses has been climbed, the entire itinerary in good condition, Rifugio Boccalatte closed, the winter part is available. The Rocheforte ridge and Dente del Gigante are in use and in good condition, with the Via Normale Italiana route open at Mont Blanch from the futuristic Rifugio Gonella (newly opened this summer). The route is in use, with some delicate parts on the glacier which is fairly crevassed and with a sharp edge on the climbs to Dôme du Gôuter. From Rifugio Borelli, some roped ways to the southern ridge of Aiguille Noire, with a dry track in good conditions - good climbing to the basin of Triolet and under Rifugio Dalmazzi. The Matterhorn: the Italian trail to the Leone ridge has been climbed with difficulty in the last two days since the route is still very delicate due to snow and ice - with a couple of days of good weather and if there is no more snow, the conditions should improve. No problems on the Swiss trail, climbing normally with crampons. Excellent conditions to Punta Cian and Breithorn, with hard and compact snow in the morning. Good conditions for summer skiing. Monte Rosa: normal climbing on Castore, Polluce, Capanna Margherita and all the classic routes. The conditions of the glaciers are still excellent. The Sella al Lyskamm ridge has been climbed with direct attack from the Fronte col, the Perazzi al Lyskamm ridge and the Lyskamm traverse, all in climbing conditions. Also the Naso is being used, passing well from the rocks, and also the descent on Gressoney is good.
Fondazione Montagna Sicura - Courmayeur
The leading edge of an Atlantic anticyclone extends across to central Europe. This situation should result in a few very sunny and summery days with temperatures gradually rising. In the mountains, climbing is good in the Triolet basin at Mont Blanc, above Rifugio Dalmazzi; Monzino sector roped on the Punta Innominata and, today, the Innominata al Bianco ridge, from Rifugio Torino the North face of Aiguille Blanche has been climbed with descent to Rifugio Monzino. All the Satelliti sector of Tacul can be climbed. Monte Rosa: high amount of activity in the mountain, generally the glaciers are closed and in good condition, various roped ways on the Parrot, the Piramide Vincent and the Balmerhorn. Also the Welzenbach on the eastern Lyskamm has been climbed, with plenty of snow, good track, and the end is easy to cross. Gran Paradiso: always very busy, with a lot of traffic on the rocks for reaching the Madonnina.
Fondazione Montagna Sicura - Courmayeur
Una circolazione depressionaria sulle isole britanniche determina un flusso di correnti occidentali a tratti umide verso la catena alpina con un'alternanza di schiarite a tratti ampie ed annuvolamenti associati a rovesci o temporali. Per domani è previsto il transito di un fronte perturbato seguito da un calo termico specie in montagna. Zero termico: 3900 m. Neve a Punta Helbronner.
Ancora abbastanza frequentate le vie classiche della zona del Monte Rosa, i ghiacciai sono ancora in condizioni corrette, con alcuni passaggi delicati. Zona Monte Bianco, piuttosto crepacciata la traversata Helbronner-Midi, frequentata la Tour Ronde, condizioni mediocri e con il ritorno del caldo da prevedere scarica nel canale, traversata Aiguilles d'Entréves e Marbrée nulla da segnalare, alcune cordate al Dente del Gigante e cresta di Rochefort. Monte Cervino, si sta salendo in questi giorni con uso dei ramponi.
Zero termico: 3500 m
Questa mattina a Punta Helbronner temperatura +1°, vento moderato da nord-ovest e nevischio.
Air currents from the west mean fairly sunny weather in this region with some high clouds and occasional cover. Compared to our last update, the temperatures in the mountains are now lower (freezing at 3800m) resulting in good re-freezing conditions.
Monte Rosa: all the main routes are very busy, with various rope-ways on Gnifetti, Castore and Dufour. The ridge trails and the crossings are in good condition; rope trails on the Parrot-Balmerhorn crossing, some delicate sections on the Parrot crest (particularly the western part is sharp edged) and on the final rocks of Corno Nero, while the steep snowy slope is all good. Also the Piramide Vincent is busy.
Mont Blanc: various rope trails on the rock climbs to the Satellite, which are sometimes difficult to approach due to holes in the glacier and with open ends. Mont Blanc du Tacul: some problems on the sharp and very busy Midi ridge, hard to get across the end and the serac crossing (equipped for abseiling).
Various rope trails also at Rochefort, Dente del Gigante, while Aiguilles d'Entréves and the Aiguille Marbrée ridge have been crossed.
Mont Blanc from Rifugio Gonella: it is now not possible to climb from the Dôme, while the climb from Aiguilles Grises is still viable. Mont Blanc has been climbed from Cosmiques, delicate passage to Tacul because a large hole has opened and the crossing of the serac is more difficult.
Il gran caldo di questi giorni va compromettendo le condizioni delle vie di neve, pessime condizioni di gelo, canali ed attraversamenti sottostanti ormai insicuri a causa delle frequenti scariche.
Attenzione alle temperature, si raccomanda di essere scrupolosi nel rispetto degli orari e nella valutazione delle condizioni sul posto.
Monte Bianco, salita ieri la Bonatti al Gran Capucin, la terminale si passa bene, pericoloso ormai il canale per arrivare all'attacco degli Svizzeri. Salito anche il Pilier Gervasutti, evitare l'uscita sopra il canale, preferire uscita sulla Torre Rossa. Traversata Aiguilles Marbrées, fattibile ma non si escludono scariche nelle ore più calde, delle due doppie attrezzate per le calate ne resta una sola, Aiguille d'Entréves, in fondo alla cresta per scendere sul ghiacciaio preferibile aggirare a sinistra, il ghiacciaio è ancora in condizioni corrette per la stagione, inevitabilmente si sta aprendo qualche buco.
Monte Rosa, tutte le vie sono ancora fattibili prestando attenzione a qualche passaggio delicato causa buchi un pò più aperti e ponti fragili. Salite in questi giorni la Giordani, il Balmerhorn, la Capanna Margherita, il Castore. Traversata del Lyskam ottima traccia, esce un pò di ghiaccio sulla spalla orientale.
Cervino, via italiana in buone condizioni, salita anche ieri, si mettono i ramponi sopra la parete verticale della Grande Corde fino al Colle Félicité.Punta Cian fattibile senza particolari problemi.
After a momentary cloudy front, the consolidating of the anticyclone should continue to mean sunny and sultry weather for the next few days. Maximum temperatures are rising, with freezing at 4000 - 4200m.Mont Blanc: Monzino sector - as always, it is recommended to go to the Rifugio to get further information about the conditions from the owner (who is an Alpine guide) and to check on people for the Eccles. At the moment, with high temperatures and the freezing level at a high altitude, it is essential to comply with the times given and to be extremely careful when crossing the glaciers and canals. Access to the Eccles camps, in the first part of the ice, there are discharges from Punta Innominata, while in the upper part of the glacier some holes are opening. Punta Innominata is dry and in good condition; danger of falling rocks in the rappel descent. Peuterey ridge has been climbed recently by 8 rope parties and is in excellent condition; the Freney glacier has been crossed to Craveri camp and is all good; same conditions for the Brouillard ridge; the Innominata ridge has been climbed and is in good condition; the Integrale al Bianco has been done in the last few days; the Pilone Centrale was climbed by a rope party a couple of days ago; also Pilastro Rosso is climbable.
Borelli sector: excellent conditions for the southern ridge of Aiguille Noire.
Dalmazzi sector: climbing good everywhere.
Aiguille d'Entreves has been crossed, several rope parties; be careful in the warmer part of the day about falling rocks. Tour Ronde, East ridge: the end does not have any particular problems, but the descent along the canal of the normal route is to be avoided because there is no snow and it is all rock debris.
Mont Blanc from Gonella: the crevasses are opening up a bit more. The crossing route has been repositioned.
Mont Blanc from Cosmiques: good track, still easy to get through Tacul.
a front will be approaching with a trough from the north Atlantic bearing down on the European coasts,
together with the passage of a low pressure area over central Italy, will lead to a fall in temperatures and
general instability. Sunday will see the arrival of possibly even heavy storms, particularly in mountainous
areas, with gusting winds.
All the mountain areas of the Aosta Valley are very busy. Mont Blanc: the normal route to Grandes
Joresses has been climbed, the entire itinerary in good condition, Rifugio Boccalatte closed, the winter
part is available. The Rocheforte ridge and Dente del Gigante are in use and in good condition, with the
Via Normale Italiana route open at Mont Blanch from the futuristic Rifugio Gonella (newly opened this
summer). The route is in use, with some delicate parts on the glacier which is fairly crevassed and with
a sharp edge on the climbs to Dôme du Gôuter. From Rifugio Borelli, some roped ways to the southern
ridge of Aiguille Noire, with a dry track in good conditions - good climbing to the basin of Triolet and under
Rifugio Dalmazzi.
The Matterhorn: the Italian trail to the Leone ridge has been climbed with difficulty in the last two days
since the route is still very delicate due to snow and ice - with a couple of days of good weather and if
there is no more snow, the conditions should improve. No problems on the Swiss trail, climbing normally
with crampons. Excellent conditions to Punta Cian and Breithorn, with hard and compact snow in the
morning. Good conditions for summer skiing.
Monte Rosa: normal climbing on Castore, Polluce, Capanna Margherita and all the classic routes. The
conditions of the glaciers are still excellent. The Sella al Lyskamm ridge has been climbed with direct attack
from the Fronte col, the Perazzi al Lyskamm ridge and the Lyskamm traverse, all in climbing conditions.
Also the Naso is being used, passing well from the rocks, and also the descent on Gressoney is good.
The leading edge of an Atlantic anticyclone extends across to central Europe. This situation should result in a few very sunny and summery days with temperatures gradually rising. In the mountains, climbing is good in the Triolet basin at Mont Blanc, above Rifugio Dalmazzi; Monzino sector roped on the Punta Innominata and, today, the Innominata al Bianco ridge, from Rifugio Torino the North face of Aiguille Blanche has been climbed with descent to Rifugio Monzino. All the Satelliti sector of Tacul can be climbed. Monte Rosa: high amount of activity in the mountain, generally the glaciers are closed and in good condition, various roped ways on the Parrot, the Piramide Vincent and the Balmerhorn. Also the Welzenbach on the eastern Lyskamm has been climbed, with plenty of snow, good track, and the end is easy to cross. Gran Paradiso: always very busy, with a lot of traffic on the rocks for reaching the Madonnina.
Zero termico: 3900 m. Neve a Punta Helbronner.