Mountain conditions update

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As they say mountain climbing is dangerous, and there are many dangers to deal with.

This service is a free and institutional teamwork and has been implemented as part of project III ALCOTRA n° 125 Safety in the Mountains around Mont Blanc, funded starting from 2008 by Compagnia di San Paolo di Torino.

This action is promoted by the Safe Mountain Foundation of Courmayeur and the High Mountain Office of Chamonix- La Chamoniarde.

You are strongly advised to consult all available bulletins before each ascent and to make use of the support of mountain guides before undertaking any excursion.

All information found on the site is from staff foundation's accounts according to region's persons in charge and is therefore closely tied to specific weather and snow conditions, which can change unexpectedly. Furthermore, the situations described should be considered in the light of an individual's physical condition and his mountaineering skills .

We are not responsible for the use of the information published on the web

  1. OHM Chamonix
    An update for the end of June!

    There hasn’t been much change since last week.

    Conditions up high for snow roots remain tricky (freeze, wind) and weather windows have been few and far between. 

    Today it looks like the mountains are warming up a bit and things may start to change quickly.
     

    Albert 1er: 
     
    The classics are being done regularly. Several teams have turned back when the freeze has been poor. On the Chardonnet the Forbes arete is very snowy which makes it difficult to protect. The Migot spur is in excellent condition when there’s a freeze. The Escarra has been done (well filled).  It’s best to take a 60 meter rope if you are descending the new abseil line as some belays are more than 25 m apart. You could think about doing the normal route as the rimaye is well filled. The hut is mostly packed out. 

     
    Argentière

    The hut opened last weekend. The Plan Joran lift is open (only for alpinists and rock climbers) 7h40to 8h20 ; 13h40 to 14h20 et 17h10 to 17h50. Closed on Sunday. When you get to the glacier traverse diagonally to the right bank heading for the Chardonnet. You need to be roped up as you’re wandering around amongst crevasses. It’s too early for the ladders as these are still under snow. Snow routes including : col du Tour Noir, glacier du Milieu, aiguille du Tour Noir, pointe Supérieure des Améthystes and arête du Jardin are in good condition if there’s a good freeze. The Flèche Rousse has been tracked (2 axes best). If there has been a day of good weather to dry the rock, you can certainly climb on the lovely red granite up here.
     

    Leschaux
     
    The Refuge is still shut following last weeks rockfall. It may be possible to open next week. The winter room remains open. The path to the hut is snowy but there’s a good track. Well equipped and experienced walkers could consider it. The last few periods of warm and good weather (there weren’t many!) brought an end to the mixed season on the Grandes Jorasses. We’re heading into the rock climbing season but we may need to wait for a few days good weather to climb on the Petites Jorasses. The routes around the hats are doable.  The Mont Mallet glacier is tracked.  No track on the Aiguille de l’Eboulement but it looks OK.
     

    Couvercle
     
    The snow is melting on the access paths to the Charpoua and the Couvercle but you need to stay alert. There are still some snow patches and some slabs are wet. There are also snow patches on the path from the Couvercle to the Leschaux  The path onto the glacier is delicate.
     
    Conditions on the Whymper are also very dependent on the freeze. Feedback from recent teams was that the rime can be crossed on the left-hand side, the secondary couloir has hard snow with a more technical icy bit at the top then unconsolidated snow for the traverse into the main colour. The rest is okay as well as the summit ridge.
     
    The Col Armand Charlet has lots of snow making it more technical. Nobody on the Arête/ Aiguille du Jardin or the Androsace as there is still too much snow.
     
    The normal route on the Droite has been tracked as well as the Courtes there and back. The Pointe Isabelle and the Col des Cristaux are fine.
     
    No rockclimbing activity as there is too much snow. There is still a lot of snow on the normal route on the Moine but the South ridge and the Contamine have dried out. 
     
    Poor freeze has also been issue up here. On the night of 26th/27th June teams heading for the Whymper were sinking in up to their knees.
     

    Charpoua
     
    An update for the end of June! There hasn’t been much change since last week. Conditions up high for snow roots remain tricky (freeze, wind) and weather windows have been few and far between.  Today it looks like the mountains are warming up a bit and things may start to change quickly.
     

    Envers des Aiguilles

    There's climbing practically everywhere. There's still a bit of snow on some of the routes on Aiguille de Roc and Très-la-Porte.
    A party has climbed the Grépon-Mer de Glace but it's too early. The rimaye passes tiptop but after that theres a lot of snow and water, snow mushrooms on the top: they did it all in big boots. Descent via the Nantillons glacier in soft snow, lots of purges. Abseil belays were visible , but a bit of a “canyoning" atmosphere.
    Teams on the Aiguille du Fou (Voie Américaine and Ailes du Désir).


    Requin sector

    Access to the refuge from Montenvers is on the left bank of the glacier
    The ascent/descent of the Vallée Blanche is tracked and goes well even if it is often soft...
    Glacier de l'Envers du Plan (Midi-Plan descent) tracked.
    Teams on  Congo Star (snowy access).
     

    Torino
     
    Still lots of people (perhaps too many people) on the classics. Nobody on the Jorasses traverse Travis as there is too much snow and lots of cornices. The Rochefort for is ok when there’s a freeze. Access to the salle a manger is still on snow. On the Tour Ronde the North face and the Gervusatti are still ok. You need to descend (and if necessary climb) by the Freshfield arete. The Kuffner arete is being done and it’s good when there’s a freeze. Watch out for overcrowding.
     
    One team left this morning for the Diable traverse but theres surely still a lot of snow. You can climb on the Tacul satellites: Grand Capucin (voie des Suisses/O Sole Mio OK by the direct start or the couloir); pointe Adolphe Rey; pyramide du Tacul.


    Aiguille du Midi
     
    There's still quite a bit of snow at the top of the S face of the Aiguille du Midi, but it's climbable! It's dry on the S face of the Pointes Lachenal.
    The Trois Monts route is still in very good condition (the rimayes du Maudit are fine, the col du mont Maudit is in snow: be careful on the descent as there is no protection).
    Arête Midi-Plan, goulotte du Triangle du Tacul OK if refreezing. One party attempted the Bodin-Afanasieff but turned back due to lack of refreeze.
     

    Plan de l'Aiguille

    The rock is drying out nicely.
    There's still snow on the Peigne normal route, which makes it a bit more complicated. The window of opportunity is there for the Frendo spur. On the other hand, the Mallory-Porter is nearing the end.
    It's still too early for Charmoz-Grepon, the NW ridge of Blaitière and the Aiguilles de Chamonix traverse, but today it's drying out visibly.


    Mont Blanc via the Grands Mulets

    You need to carry skis as far as the glacier. The Jonction can be crossed low down (one bridge to watch out for). It’s tracked on foot and skis, as is the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter.
    The N face and plateaux are still in good condition for skiing, provided you aim for the right time (a serac fall on the N face at the classic spot probably messed up the exit from the face)...
     

    Mont Blanc via the Aiguille du Goûter

    Now mountaineers (only) can take advantage of the trains to the Nid d'Aigle (trains at 7am, 12pm and 4pm, booking and presentation of a reservation in one of the refuges required).
    Good conditions for the moment. On the Bosses ridge, most teams take the path (steep but easy) on the N face to get around the “mauvaise arete"
     

    Plan Glacier / Durier

    Access from the Miage refuge is possible with dry feet up to the junction of the two paths. There is still snow on the path from the Col du Tricot.
    Things are calming down in the area. Bad refreeze, hot weather: the snow is melting and the crevasses are opening up. 
    However, in the words of the guardian, “The Mettrier remains beautiful". The route is still passable. It may be preferable to take the Lenoir option. 
    The access to the Durier hut from Plan Glacier is in snow, better with a good refreeze. 
    Good conditions overall on the busy aiguille de Bionnassay route.
     
     
    Conscrits

    Access via the glacier is no longer possible. The snow is melting fast on the path, but beware of snow bridges over the torrents, which are high and hollowed out by the high flows (due to the recent heavy rainfall + melting).
    With a good freeze, all the routes in the area are in good condition - we cant say better than that.
     

    Mont Blanc via the Aiguilles Grises

    The general conditions are still good, regardless of the quality of the freeze. However, we need to be cautious about the crevasses on the Dôme glacier.
    A team climbed the Tournette spur: access OK to Quintino Sella if refreezing, but plan to be early. Rimaye OK but the upper part not so easy due to the quality of the snow.
     

    Monzino

    Aiguille Croux: plan to use crampons and ice axe for access: Cheney route (on descent, we put crampons back on for the median névé of the normal route but the abseil belays are clear); routes on the SE face (Ottoz, Euroteam, Jean- Marie etc) with descent via the Euroteam abseil belays.
    A team is due to head for the Eccles tomorrow, to be continued (but from the looks of things all the routes are well loaded with snow and cornices above).
     

    Tour du Mont Blanc

    Few changes. No problem for well-equipped hikers (good shoes, poles, small crampons in the bag). Beware of a torrent crossing at the Col de la Seigne. The Tricot option is feasible, but not the others (Col des Fours, Pas d'entre deux Sauts, Val d'Arpette closed by the municipality of Orsières).
     

    Tour des Aiguilles Rouges

    This activity is reserved for experienced hikers with good crampons! The Cols du Brévent and de Salenton require caution and a mountain footing.
     
    Hiking in the Chamonix valley
    Lots of snow on the grand balcon paths.
    Lac Blanc (still snow-covered!): a 20-minute walk in the snow from La Flégère (OK with poles and good shoes). Crampons are useful from the Col des Montets/Trè-le-Champs and the Lacs des Chéserys. Still not recommended from the Index; nor is the Planpraz-col Cornu - col de la Glière - Index section.
    It's also too snowy for hikers on the Col de la Terrasse, Albert 1er and Jonction sections.
     

    Chamonix-Zermatt by footpath

    Because of the snow, it's still too early to consider this trek (more alpine than the TMB, with several passes approaching 3000 m). Most hikers are cancelling for the time being.


  2. OHM Chamonix
    We've had a brief taste of summer in recent days, but the high-pressure system is struggling to take hold. The wind, however, seems here to stay...

     Classic June conditions are back! In the high mountains, there is a lot of snow and inconsistent refreezing (short nights, frequent SW winds, thin cloud cover), which significantly impacts snow conditions. The rock is gradually drying and offers a viable alternative in case of poor refreezing. Refreezing has been particularly poor over the past two days, greatly limiting activities. Rain, warm winds, and sand have rapidly melted the snow, but the overall snow cover remains promising! In the mid-mountains, there's still a lot of snow, requiring adaptation in hiking choices and equipment.


    Albert 1er - Trient Area

    No more snowfields on the trail from Charamillon/Tête de Balme to Albert 1er. Snow starts on the slope just before the moraine. Due to heavy rain last Saturday, there was a landslide above the initial section of the "moraine trail," but it remains passable.

    All classic routes in the area are being done: Aiguille du Tour (Couloir & Arête de la Table, VN), Tête Blanche (VN, N Face), Petite Fourche. Good refreezing is necessary for the Aiguille du Chardonnet routes (Forbes Arête and Migot Spur).

    Too much snow in the Dorées traverse, especially on the N side. It can be considered partially from E to W up to Col Copt.

    Climbing is possible around the Orny refuge, at the Portalet Bell Tower, and on the S face of the Dorées!


    Argentière Basin

    The refuge opens this Saturday, June 22! Reminder: lifts for climbers only on the Plan Joran gondola every day except Sunday: 7:30 - 8:30 am / 1:30 - 2:30 pm (up and down) and 5:00 - 6:00 pm (down only). Tickets are available at the Plan Joran kiosk (credit card only).

    Access to the refuge is via the right bank of the glacier (some crevasses to cross but manageable). Too much snow for now on the ladder side.

    The rock is drying slowly, and there's plenty to do! Too much snow for the Jardin Arête. With good refreezing, snow routes should be excellent. Aiguille d'Argentière via the Glacier du Milieu was in good condition last week.

    The Couturier Couloir might still be doable. Reminder: major construction work at Lognan-Les Grands Montets. The whole area is off-limits (see the map ), but access to the Petite Verte and Grands Montets Arête is still possible via the Grands Montets Col (just avoid the construction site).


    Charpoua/Talèfre Area

    Access to the Charpoua refuge is via the balcony trail (still too early for the "Charpoua Express" variant), which still has some snow. Only climbers are active in the Flammes de Pierre area (the ropes at the Guides' Passage are in good condition, photo 1).

    Still a steep snowfield in a couloir to cross to reach the Couvercle refuge.

    Too much snow on the Moine VN (so also too early for the S Arête and E Face). No activity in other areas (Nonne, Evêque).

    Good conditions on the Whymper at Aiguille Verte with good refreezing. The bergschrund is passable, some belays might still be under snow (bring two 60m ropes), and much of the descent is done by downclimbing.

    VN of the Droites is feasible (lots of snow but no cornices), and there have been round-trip ascents on the Courtes. Pointe Isabelle is tracked but needs better refreezing for good conditions.


    Leschaux Area

    Several large blocks have fallen onto the terrace of the Leschaux refuge, which is now unmanned until further notice. The winter refuge remains open (avoid lingering on the terrace).

    Opportunists took advantage of a window for the Linceul or Rêve Ephémère, but the foehn wind ended it. The rock behind the refuge is dry. A spell of good weather should make climbing on the Petites Jorasses feasible.
    The Mont Mallet glacier is in excellent condition.
    Several gullies and snowfields to cross on the balcony trail; good crampons and an ice axe are essential! Not suitable for hikers at the moment.


    Envers des Aiguilles/Requin Area

    Base of the ladders: there's a knotted rope attached to the ladder of ropes. It's "sporty" and people rappel down. Trail services should intervene soon. Snow is found halfway between the ladders and the Envers refuge. It's on slabs, so caution is needed, especially when it's warm... The bypass around the refuge is also tricky. Hikers, it's not yet the time for you!

    The SW wind has dried the lower areas (Tour Rouge, Tour Verte, Pointe des Nantillons, Aiguille de Roc: Pedro Polar) where climbing is fine. With a good weather window, the VN of the République and Grépon-Mer de Glace should be feasible.

    The Requin refuge opens this Saturday, June 22. "Still a significant snowfield in the couloir, between the ladders (photo 2). And for the exit onto the trail, there's snow with some trail segments, but overall, it's passable."


    Aiguille du Midi Area

    No major changes in the area; conditions for the classics (Midi Plan OK up to the Rognon, Triangle du Tacul, etc.) vary with the wind and refreezing!

    The season switch (crampons gradually replacing skis) is underway on the Trois Monts route, which remains in good condition (weather permitting).


    Helbronner Area

    Not much change here either (Rochefort, Dent du Géant, Marbrées, Entrèves, Tour Ronde: prefer descent or access via the Freshfield Arête). Poor refreezing in recent days and almost no activity. Kuffner Arête feasible with good refreezing. Need to wait a bit for the Jorasses traverse and the Diable Arêtes.


    Plan de l'Aiguille Area

    The hut is open. Climbing is possible on the NE arête of Aiguille de l'M, the Rouge Pillar of Blaitière, and the SW face of the 3078 m Gendarme of the Peigne. Crampons and ice axes for access are obviously necessary.

    The Mallory was recently climbed, conditions pending. It's a bit early for the Frendo Spur, but the right window is coming!


    Mont Blanc via Grands Mulets

    Skiing Mont Blanc is still possible, but the sections on foot are getting longer. The upper Junction has deteriorated, so the lower route is now preferred. Few changes above: N Arête of the Dôme, plateaux, Corridors, and N face are in good condition.


    Mont Blanc via Aiguille du Goûter

    Nothing to add to the precise and recent information and photos published on the refuges' social media: "Tête Rousse ascent ????????‍????:
    • Option from Bellevue, traverse to Plan de l'Are towards the Nid d'Aigle ladders, a few snowfields at the top but generally dry. —> The Nid d’Aigle refuge has been open since June 8, stop by and say hello ????????.
    • From Nid d’Aigle to Tête Rousse, most guides still go via the glacier, very few people take the moraines (presence of ice). Goûter ascent ????
    • From Tête Rousse to Goûter, excellent conditions, all snow, the cables are fully exposed at the top.
    • Track on the Goûter Dome: very good condition. And for the final sprint ????:
    • Option 1: Bosses Ridge, bad ice ridge, 2 abalakov on the Italian side, 1 abalakov on the Chamonix side 1m below the ridge. ????
    • Option 2: N face track in excellent condition for both ascent and descent. Now let's hope we stop flying away ????‍⬛."


    Dômes de Miage - Bionnassay Area

    The summer access bridge to the Conscrits refuge has been restored and the trail has been secured by guides. The trail can be used, but caution is needed as there are still many snowy sections where slipping is not an option: crampons and ice axe are essential, and the route is not recommended for hikers for another one to two weeks.

    For the glacier approach, the stream must now be crossed on a snow bridge; it's wise to rope up for this crossing as the bridge will soon be very fragile.

    Most routes in the area have been done when weather and refreezing allowed: Dômes de Miage traverse, Dômes to Durier, Aiguille de la Bérangère, Mont Tondu, traverse of the Aiguilles de Tré-la-Tête, good conditions everywhere.

    Snow starts at 2600 m for the ascent to Plan Glacier. Mettrier Arête still passable. Few people on the classic ascent to Durier, only feasible with good refreezing and early start!

    Beware of the arête before the rocky bastion (cornices, poor refreezing) on Aiguille de Bionnassay. Beyond that, it's fine (some cornices on the NE arête).


    Mont Blanc via Gonella

    Overall good conditions: good track, crevasses on the Dôme glacier but passable, no ice under the col des aiguilles Grises or for reaching the piton des Italiens.


    Monzino Sector (photos 3 & 4)

    The refuge opens today! There is also a lot of snow here. The climb to Eccles is not tracked (the pillars are still too snowy).


    Aiguilles Rouges Sector

    Reminder: the routes to the left of the Frison Roche are closed until July 15th by municipal decree (construction at the summit of Brévent).

    Crampons and ice axes are necessary for access to the routes. Some snow patches remain in certain less steep routes or in the transitions (Hotel California, Cocher-Cochon...).

    There is a steep cornice at the col des Crochues (the second climber can be belayed on a northern side beak). For the Voie des Français (aiguille du Pouce): the approach is entirely snowy, with a cornice at the aiguille de la Glière which can be avoided. The climb starts almost at R2 (10 m below R2, yellow cord). The return via the ridge is complicated (snow, cornices): it's better to wait a bit longer!

    The Perrons traverse is doable (crampons + ice axe).


    Hiking Information

    Starting with good news: the Bellachat refuge will open from Saturday, June 29th! Reservations only by phone at 07 75 83 02 70!

    Most hikes are now accessible, but there are still snow patches on some of them: contact us to check conditions. Crampons and sturdy mountain shoes are recommended for the Grand Balcon Nord, the lac Blanc from col des Montets, and the Chéserys lakes, as well as the Brévent - Bellachat refuge section.

    However, it is still too snowy for: Jonction, gare des Glaciers, balcons de la Mer de Glace, refuge Albert 1er, col de la Terrasse, col de Salenton/Buet, lac Blanc from the Index, col de la Glière - lacs Noirs - lac Cornu - col Cornu, col du Brévent (can be bypassed by ascending Brévent via the ski slope through the brèche du Brévent).


    Tour du Mont Blanc

    It is going well for experienced hikers (still a lot of snow but good tracks at the main passes: Bonhomme, Seigne, Grand col Ferret, Balme, Brévent: bypass the latter via the ski slope and the brèche du Brévent). Good shoes, poles, and small crampons are essential. The Tricot variant is doable but those of the Fours and Arpette are still too dangerous (see photo 5 for the latter). Be careful of slips and stream crossings! The Bellachat refuge opens from Saturday, June 29th! Reservations only by phone at 07 75 83 02 70!


    Tour des Aiguilles Rouges

    Very snowy at the moment. The first hikers (very experienced) have crossed the passes in recent days. The track is barely marked, making it very strenuous. You need to be able to navigate with a map as the trails are not visible for long sections. Proper crampons are advised. Therefore, it is reserved for the most experienced hikers! For others, it is better to postpone!


    Tour des Fiz

    Still a lot of snow on the route (above 2100m), particularly at col d'Anterne, col de la Portette (photo 6), and Dérochoir. The marking is still barely visible, so a navigation tool and proper equipment (poles and crampons) are highly recommended. The connection with Flaine and with Varan from the refuge of Platé is reserved for experienced hikers.



  3. OHM Chamonix
     Great weather isn’t it? If you were quick off the mark you would have enjoyed blue skies on Wednesday and Thursday but we now have two days of unsettled weather before the next good spell. Metéo France stopped publishing an avalanche report on the 6th of June, but we shouldn’t forget the avalanche risk: lots of wind and fresh snow at altitude so constant vigilance!
     
    Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB)
    Not much change to report here. The snow is gradually disappearing but over the Cols Bonhomme, Seigne and Ferret there is continuous snow cover. We reiterate our previous advice about what is needed: good physical preparation, ability to analyse the safety of snow bridges and steep sections and adequate kit. We advise you against any TMB variants for the time being.
     
    Aiguilles Rouges
    The Plan Praz and Brevent lifts are now open so walking and climbing activity will increase in the Aiguilles Rouges. Axe and crampons are essential for approaches to climbing routes.   Watch out for cornices and ice above you when you are climbing. The mountain lakes are still under snow. There is now a track in to get up to Lac Blanc from Flegere.  Good shoes/boots advised. We advise you against trying to get to Lac Blanc along the footpath from the Index as it is tricky terrain.   Some patience will be needed before summer walking conditions arrive.
     
    We would like to remind you of the temporary closure of certain climbing routes on Le Brévent from 15/06/24 to 15/07/24: Due to works at the top of Le Brévent, ALL the routes to the left of La Frison-Roche are closed (Poème à Lou, Babylone, Premier de corvée, Ex-Libris etc) by local by-order.
    La Frison-Roche, Retour à la Bretagne, la Piste Oubliée and A Fleur de Roche remain climbable!

    Albert 1er
    Lots going on around here. The snow is gradually melting on the approaches and becoming more weight-bearing so it’s less hard work than last week.  The Migot spur and the Forbes arete are at are in good condition but lots of snow around the summit.  Lots of people on the classic routes, which are in good condition: Couloir and arête de la table, Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche, Aiguille du Tour. 
     As far as approaches to the hut are concerned we advise against the summer path because of steep snowy slopes. It’s better to use the path by the moraine which is dry until you reach the usual summer path. Lots of people expected this weekend with the forecast good weather on Sunday.
     
    Argentiere
    No recent feedback on climbing. The hut opens on 20th June so activity will probably pick up.
     
    The Plan Joran lift will be open to alpinists from the 22nd June every day except Sunday. There will be a ticket machine (bank card only).  7h30 - 8h30 / 13h30-14h30 (ascent and descent) et 17h00 - 18h00 (descent only).
     
    Couvercle
    From the top of the ladders there are still a few snow patches so it’s still too early for walkers. Generally the snow is weight-bearing depending on the time of day.  The rimayes are beginning to open up but nothing to report at present. It’s too early for the normal route on the Moine (very snowy) and for rockclimbing in general. Lots of teams in the Whymper couloir yesterday. The approach can be done foot but on the way back there may be deep snow depending on the timing. The rimaye is starting to open up but at the moment it’s okay.  Classic mistake: lots of teams starts too far right at the bottom.  All the belays have now been dug out.   The S side of the Col Armand Charlet is OK. Far too much snow to consider the arete du Jardin. The classic traverse of the Grande Rocheuse via the normal route is fine.
    Attempts at the normal route on the Droites but to no avail. One party reached the summit but not necessarily by the right route!
    There and back on the Courtes can be done, but we'll have to wait for the weather to settle down before we can do the traverse.
    No-one on the Pointe Isabelle! Snowshoes could be useful!
     
    Leschaux 
    Lots of people on the Grandes Jorasses. The Aiguille de l'Eboulement and the Périades look to be in good condition. For climbing, the rock looks dry with glacier approaches well covered in snow.

    The Charpoua opens tomorrow, 15 June. It looks as though the Flammes de Pierre should be possible.
     
    Envers des Aiguilles
    The Envers des Aiguilles opens tomorrow, June 15. To get to the first rungs of the ladders, you'll have to scramble. New rungs are due to be installed shortly to make access easier. Above, the snow has melted well but there are still continuous sections on the large slabs below the refuge and on the final ascent. Ice axes and crampons are required. It is possible to climb Les Nantillons and La Tour Verte. For the rest, we'll wait for the sun to come out to get a good view. 
     
    Cosmiques 
    Same as last week on the South faces of Aiguille du Midi and Lachenal: the climbing is going well in the steep pitches at the bottom. In the final pitches that are less steep, it may be preferable to put on big boots and crampons. Here too, beware of falling ice. 
    A detailed recap of the conditions on the 3 Monts and the descent of the N face here.
    The Triangle gullies (Négri, Grisolle, Mazeaud, Chéré) have been tracked. 
    Midi Plan, a track up to The Rognon. Beyond a lot of snow and corniches 
     
    Helbronner/Torino sector
    A lot of people on the classics (crossing the Marbrées and the Aiguilles d'Entrèves, but beware of the number of teams present).
    The Tour Ronde routes are still in good condition. Be careful on the "normal route" down (E face) as it heats up quickly and strongly (rock falls from 9-10 am).
    Good conditions on the Dent du Géant (good route to the Salle à Manger). The Arête de Rochefort (Rochefort ridge) was climbed as far as the Aiguille de Rochefort yesterday (beware of the wind and snow forecast for the near future).
    A team climbed the Kuffner yesterday, Wednesday 13 June, but there was too much snow (cornices, etc.). We'll have to wait for a spell of good weather for the snow to settle.
    There’s climbing on the steep routes on the Tacul satellites but beware of falling icicles. Snow on the ledges and sometimes a little ice in the cracks.
     
    Gouter
    Conditions for accessing the Gouter are good and you can still leave from Bellevue or Bionnassay via the Plateau de l'Are (the municipal by-law prohibiting the approach via the Rognes and the rails is still in force). The tramway will reopen tomorrow as far as Bellevue, but work is continuing to reopen the upper section. 
    The couloir below the Gouter is all snow, and with a good load-bearing capacity the approach is quick. Above, the passage through the ice to get a foothold on the “mauvaise arete" is improving, as the snow has stuck at this point.
    The Tête Rousse and Gonella refuges are having problems with phone signal.  For reservations ring the Gouter.
     
    Plan Glacier  
    Guardian report: 15/06/24: "The access path from Miage is clear up to the junction with the Chemin des Contrebandiers (2600m), access possible in hiking boots with small crampons just in case.
    On the Metrier, top conditions, good refreeze,  rimaye great  and snow not too deep.  Now there are some good steps....
    Traversée des Dômes excellent conditions, perfect Chaborgne descent.
    Bionnassay: south face. Very good refreeze, there were a few centimetres of fresh snow accumulated in the gullies, but otherwise it was perfect! Top conditions for skiing.
     
    Durier
    The Durier refuge is open, but the warden hasn't seen anyone yet. Lots of snow and lots of wind. We recommend climbing via the Métrier or the Conscrits. 

    Conscrits
    Access remains the same as in previous weeks: climb the left bank of the glacier, cross the widest part of the torrent (to limit the consequences if you enter the water). Then navigate by eye to the refuge. 
    The last few days have been very busy around the refuge: the Dômes traverse, Métrier and descending to the Conscrits, Tré la Tête, Lée Blanche. The approaches are in compact snow. Good conditions on the above routes. Everything has been done on foot and there are no skiers around. It's raining today at the Conscrits. 
    As for the footbridge, it will be installed next week (check date with hut).  In any case as there is so much snow around you need the right kit.  Not advised for walkers at present.
  4. OHM Chamonix
    This week, some people have enjoyed the short weather window  and climbed in the sun, skied at altitude and ‘launched’ themselves into the summer alpine season.

    As far as the snow line is concerned, there's been no major change: there is still a lot of snow above 2000m. The Grand Balcon Nord path is still covered in snow. The Balcon Sud is possible but there are lots of large snow patches.  The precautions to be taken remain the same: light weight crampons and poles as well as a good analysis of the terrain and the objective risks. 

    For more information on the Tour du Mont Blanc, its conditions and feasibility, click here.
    The signposting of the paths is continuing at the same pace as the snow line, which is rising  slowly to 2100 m on the north side and 2200 m on the south side. This altitude will vary according to the terrain.
    Lac Blanc is completely white, as are the other lakes in this sector.
    For access to Lac Blanc via Flégère: there is continuous snow from 2100m: a good track according to the guardian. From Lac des Chéserys, the access is all snow: the ladders arent easy. Return via the Chalets des Chéserys is ok. 

    Couvercle : 
    Some alpinists took advantage of the window of good weather and the good refreeze to do the Verte. The rimaye straight below the main Whymper couloir is fine. There's a good track up the couloir. For the descent, the amount of snow means that not all the abseil points could be accessed or found. Some dead-men have been installed. Watch out for the next storm and whether the rimaye will change.
    We have had no feedback and we've seen no tracks on the other routes, but theres been lots of snow and lots of purging. Rock climbing will have to wait! 
    As for access to the hut, there's still snow above the ladders. As in last week's report, the best thing to do is to contact the warden directly to find the best way to get up to the hut. 

    Albert 1er: 
    Access to the refuge is still not recommended via the summer path: it is steep and there are still a lot of névés and purging. However, it is possible to access the hut via the moraine, with your feet in the snow a hundred metres below the hut. 
    Activity observed: Migot: a poor freeze over the last few days has meant a difficult approach. Above 3200m, it's better, but lots of snow and purges as soon as the sun comes out. Also a lot of people on the Aiguille du Tour and the Grande Fourche. Similar conditions.

    Grands Mulets : 
    Access to the refuge is still good via the upper Jonction, but the lower Jonction has deteriorated. Be careful at this altitude and at this time of year, things change quickly! 
    Above the refuge, there are tracks on the north ridge of the Dôme, which is covered in snow, and also on the Plateaux - Corridors. Skiing down the Corridors and the north face - wind affected snow and sastrugi but apparently still skiable. It will probably all change soon.

    Goûter:
    Work continues on the TMB railway. Access is forbidden via the railway and the Rognes (municipal by-law), so you have to go via the Plan de l'Are.  
    The approach to the Tête Rousse then access to the Gouter is snow all the way. With a good refreeze, the climb is in very good conditions. The cables below the old refuge are visible. The crux of the route is below the "mauvaise arête": a short 30m section of ice. Abalakovs have been installed (be sure to check their condition!). From the top of this ice wall it is possible to climb/belay on opposite sides of the ridge. Then there's a narrow arête. 
    Beware of traffic jams at the bottom of the "mauvais arete" and the time this climb can take. 
    The north ridge of the Dome du Gouter is in good nick.

    Torino : 
    Lots happening over on the Italian side. Grand Flambeau, Marbrées (classics and variants), Tour Ronde and Entrèves have all been done. At this altitude, approaches are easy without snowshoes. Plenty of snow and ice. Good alpine conditions. 

    Argentière  
    The Argentière refuge remains closed until 20 June (winter room in operation). Retreats observed on the Couturier rimaye and at the Droites rimaye. 
    One ski track on the "Z" on the Verte (Couturier variant). 

    Conscrits
    The transition from skiing to climbing is taking place. If you want to ski, you'll have to carry your skis right up to the hut. 
    On the access side, no major changes following our update last week. (photos and detailed access). Access in ‘summer mode’ via the footbridge (passerelle) will be available from 18 June. 
    A lot of people on the traverse of the Dômes de Miage with a not very good freeze. The Bérangère and Chaborgne routes have been tracked. One team retreated heading for the Durier. 
    The Col des glaciers and the Aiguille des glaciers were skied. 

    Cosmiques 
    The short window of good weather allowed climbing on the south face of the Aiguille du Midi and the south face of the Lachenal. 
    A (large) avalanche was observed below the Contamine Négri on the morning of the 06th. Still some activity in the gullies of the Tacul triangle. 
    The ascent to the Tacul is still going well, but watch out for the snow bridges, which are changing rapidly. The lower rimaye is starting to open up. From the Aiguille du Midi, there are still more skiers than climbers heading for Mont Blanc. 
    Midi plan was done on 03/06, no specific information. 
    The Cosmiques arete is still being done in good conditions. 

    Plan Glacier  
    For the ascent to the refuge, a foot path via the moraine à l'Ours has been made. Snow around 2300m. 
    The Métrier arête, the Dômes de Miage and the descent via the Armancette were completed on 5 June 2024. 
    Conditions report from guardian: "METRIER arête: good refreeze, cramponing OK for the first 2 thirds, but afterwards sinking in for 50cm, track made as far as the Dôme, nothing further to report.
    Armancette glacier ski descent: fairly good snow in the upper section, but at the bottom hard raincrust  from the previous day which hadnt melted".  

    The lifts opening this weekend are: Flégère - Index, Charamillon - Col de Balme and Bellevue. 
    You can find out more about the hiking trails available at the moment here
     photo 1: Lac d'Anterne 
    photo 2: view from Les Ayeres 
    photo 3: Lac Blanc 
    photo 4: path below Lac Blanc
     
     
  5. OHM Chamonix
    Last update for this month of May-vember!

    After our short spell of fine weather on Tuesday, it's been yet another wet week!
    No major changes in conditions. It's still snowing up there and in the "moyenne montagnes", everything is melting very slowly but the snow cover is still substantial for hiking above 2000m.
    When we woke up this morning, the ground was white up to 2000m.
    More than 50cm of light snow has fallen at the Goûter and Cosmiques huts, and 30cm of wind-blown at the Helbronner! Watch out for the risk of avalanches/purges over the next few days!
    So there are no major changes in the high mountains. The transition between skiing and alpinism is proving difficult! Please refer to the previous update or call us if the information you are looking for is not below!
    The Conscrits refuge is still open. ‘The Conscrits summer footpath will be “open” on 18 June (work on the footbridge is scheduled for 17 and 18 June). In the meantime, you have to access the refuge via the glacier, a route that has become very wet. As in previous years, you now have to climb up the LEFT BANK and avoid the gorge on the right bank (the former Tré la Grande ice slope) where a fall could be fatal. You need to cross the torrent on the flat bit (there's a snow bridge that you can still cross) at the point where, if you go into the water, you will only get wet (and not drown). The rocky bar on the left bank is equipped and goes smoothly. Very soon, the passage through the bar will be reinforced with a rope and a small temporary footbridge will be installed to cross the torrent’ (see photo). Up above, probably no changes.
     
    The Plan Glacier refuge has been open since yesterday. It's dry up to 2300 m above the Chalets de Miage. On the way down, you can ski to 1900m. Above travel is only possible on skis for the time being. The Mettrier arête was done in excellent conditions last weekend, and the N face of Les Dômes has also been skied (last weekend).
     
    The Durier refuge will open on 15/06. Quite a few skiers on the N face of Bionnassay in recent weeks (access via the Nid d'Aigle/Tête Rousse: don't forget the portage, skis on at the Nid d'Aigle).
    The Nid d'Aigle refuge will open on 3/06. The Tête Rousse and Goûter huts are open. As a reminder, the TMB and cable car are closed (the Bellevue lift will open on 8/06) = you have to walk! Snow clearing and work in progress on the railway line + a ban on walking introduced by the APHN = access via the Crozat and the Chalets de l'Are for most people, no information on the Rognes. There is a good footpath from the Nid d'Aigle, so snowshoes are not essential. On the other hand, you shouldn't try to open up a variant because as soon as you leave it, you will be wading around.
    The cable has been reinstalled in the Goûter couloir and is accessible, as are those in the upper part of the face below the refuge. Before the snow, there was a good track that will soon be remade. Beyond that, snowshoes were not necessary, but they could prove useful for retracking the route between the Goûter refuge and Vallot (this section is in very good condition). The Bosses ridge remains technical at the ‘mauvais arete’: it is narrow, there is ice on the Italian side and the passage on the N side is not necessarily ideal. There's an abalakov in place (to be confirmed!!!) and  it's a 30m pitch: ‘Mont Blanc is still a climbers mountain’!!!!
     
    If there is a weather window, Mont Blanc on skis via the Grands Mulets refuge is still in good condition. Some bits of skis on/off between Plan de l'Aiguille and the glacier. The Jonction higher path is changing and opening up, but it's still OK for the moment. The Jonction lower path was retracked on 30/05.
    The North ridge of the Dôme is snowy, with only a short section of ice on the last step. For the Bosses ridge, see above.
    The most popular route is: plateaus, Corridor and the Mur de la côte (which is skiable). The ascent via the plateaus remains very exposed to serac falls.
    The descent via the north face of Mont Blanc was made again this week in fresh snow.
    Aiguille du Midi and the Cosmiques refuge area :
    The Panoramic opened last weekend.
    For the Trois Monts, we have to solve the equation weather + snowpack stability = not easy lately. But very good conditions when it does!
    Otherwise no changes (activity on the Lachenal, Triangle, Cosmiques arête)! The approaches (including the crossing of the Vallée Blanche) are being done on foot (they will have to be tracked). There was a big fall of seracs below the Col du Diable in the usual place (between the Pyramide du Tacul and the Pointe Adolphe Rey), so best to keep your distance there.
    The rock has a hard time drying out between the snow falls, but the S faces will dry out quickly when the high pressure returns.
    The Skyway and the Torino refuge are open. Still lots of skiers in the area. Lots of teams traversing the Marbrées and the Aiguilles d'Entrêves. The Tour Ronde is in good condition: the ‘normal route’ is all snow; the N face was climbed on 28/05 in good conditions (rimaye ok, some black ice on the surface in the gully, beware of the risk of avalanche on the upper slope) as was the Gervasutti couloir (rimaye blocked, all snow). The approaches are tracked on foot.
    The Montenvers train will reopen tomorrow, Saturday 1 June, as will the gondola to the Mer de Glace and all the access paths = back to normal!
    The Couvercle guardian will be back with the first bookings (perhaps tomorrow or Sunday), until then the winter refuge is accessible. Access is not easy at this time of year: the winter access routes (central couloir, Pierre à Béranger) are no longer passable and it's a bit early to take the path from the top of the ladders (snowy couloirs, exposed to avalanches/purges). The best option is to check with the guardian. Above the refuge, it's as white as everywhere else!
    The Requin will open on 15/06, Leschaux on 11/06, l'Envers on 14/06, date to be announced for the Charpoua!
    No news (= good news) from the Argentière glacier area (refuge opening on 20/06, there will be mountaineering mechanical uplift this summer).
     
    Access to the Albert 1er refuge (open) is still via the moraine path. The summer path from the top of the ski lifts is still too snowy and dangerous (there was an accident last weekend, see photo). The classic routes are being done on foot (which can be quite tricky) and on skis: Aiguille du Tour normal route, couloir de la Table (currently very snowy), tête Blanche normal route. There's been no recent activity on the Chardonnet (‘very good snow cover, and good conditions to come once the snowpack has settled’).
     
    For hiking, don't go above 2000m if you want to be safe! Don't forget to give us a call to check out the feasibility of your project!
    Hiking on the Tour du Mont Blanc is off to a very slow start (refuges are opening and the first hikers are warming up). The cols and high altitude sections are very snowy. These are not névés but long stretches of snow, which means :
    - paths and markings not visible = risk of getting lost
    - walking for a long time in the snow = more physical or even exhausting stages if you have to (re)track, have good hiking boots + gaiters (snow gets wet!!!)
    - risk of slipping/falling: carry and know how to use crampons or even a small ice axe (snow is slippery!!!)
    - Take care when crossing streams and torrents so as not to fall through and get swept away.
    In these conditions, it is only for very experienced, trained and adequately equipped hikers. Most hikers who set off at the moment turn back (remember to do so before it's too late!!!).
     
    Here's some other news:
    - the opening of the Bossons chairlift has been be postponed (repair work)
    - Emosson dam road open since Thursday
    - a static rope has been installed to access the Vipère etc routes (Barberine), as the existing rope was damaged.
  6. OHM Chamonix
    The sun is expected to shine this weekend after another autumnal week.

    A series of minor disturbances followed, with a pattern of showers in the form of snow in the high mountains. It's difficult to estimate the amount of fresh snow: every day we recorded between 5 and 10 cm of snow at the Cosmiques refuge, which quickly settled, but in total it was still quite a lot. We estimate around fifteen centimetres at the Grands Mulets: the tracks are still visible up to 3500m.

    It's the end of May, but the risk of avalanches and snowfalls is more important than ever for your outings in the high mountains.

    Skis and snowshoes are still needed to get around in the high mountains, except near the open lifts (Aiguille du Midi and Punta Helbronner).

    Last weekend's period saw some great activity in the high mountains, mainly around the Aiguille du Midi and Mont Blanc (but also the Conscrits and Albert 1er areas). Skiing was still the main activity

    In the mid-range mountains, the snow cover is having trouble receding (as it does every year), even though it is gradually melting.

    The snow remains continuous above 2000/2200 m depending on the direction and sector. This still limits hiking in the classic areas (high altitude lakes, large balconies, access to refuges).

    You can still enjoy the beautiful contrasts of the moment (all white at the top, all green at the bottom) on the hikes you find in the list.


    As far as multi-day treks are concerned (tour of Mont Blanc, tour of the Aiguilles Rouges etc), it's still a bit early: the passes are completely snow-covered (paths and markings not visible, risk of slipping and falling through the snow when crossing torrents, risk of exhaustion when walking in the snow) and the refuges are closed.

    We can imagine the activity starting in the first half of June for people with experience and equipment suited to these snow conditions.


    As expected, the Robert Blanc hut (Dôme des Glaciers) is the best place to ski.

    The Conscrits hut is well guarded this weekend. The right bank of the Mauvais Pas glacier is still open as far as the (former) Tré la Grande seracs. There were no changes in the sector and the overall conditions were fine. For the ski descent via the Armancette glacier, we take off our skis at around 2000m (300m above the lake).

    The Plan Glacier hut has been cleared of snow :) and will open on 30 May.

    The refuges on the Mont Blanc normal route (Tête Rousse and Goûter) open today (except the Nid d'Aigle, which will open on 30/05).

    The Bellevue cable car and the Mont Blanc tramway are closed. You will therefore have to set off on foot from Les Houches or the hamlet of Bionnassay.

    Snow clearance on the railway line will start on Monday 27 May. In addition, mudslides have damaged equipment downstream of the tunnel before the Nid d'Aigle, and repair work will start on 3 June. Transit by rail will therefore not be possible at the start of the season (nor afterwards during the Nid d'Aigle operations/terminal works period).

    The Tête Rousse refuge can therefore be reached (for mountaineers only) either via the Chalets de l'Are and then the Nid d'Aigle ladders or via the Rognes (both of which are currently covered in heavy snow from the Col du Mont Lachat/ladders under the Nid d'Aigle; beware of unscrewing, particularly on the descent as you get tired).

    There are no tracks at the moment, so you'll have to make your own: snowshoes or snowplakes can be useful tools! Be careful to keep to the timetable (risk of avalanches in steep sections such as the Aiguille du Goûter).

    We don't have any more recent information about the Bosses ridge than we did in our 17 May update.

    A lot of people are expected up there this weekend. So the track should be made and we'll have more information about the Bosses ridge afterwards.

    The Mont Blanc ski season is in full swing! No significant changes on the Grands Mulets side apart from the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter, which is gradually gaining snow (we're expecting another 15-20m of ice, so bring good crampons and 2 ice axes, the route is being mapped out this morning but no further information is available). The corridors, the Mur de la Côte and the N face are "creamy", as is the Jonction (here it can be assessed more quickly).

    Very good conditions on the Trois Monts too (last activity last Sunday, no ice, the passage from the crevasse to the Maudit has become much easier with the new snow). An attempt to trace the Tacul this morning but no further information (the clearing was short!). Beware of the avalanche risk.

    The Lachenal traverse and the Cosmiques ridge have been retraced. Some activity in the gullies of the Triangle (Chéré, Contamine-Mazaud, Contamine-Grisolle, Contamine-Negri) but no news from those further east (visually provided but it's getting hot and fast).

    The Skyway, Panoramic and Torino refuge reopen today. This will allow a resumption of alpine activity on the Pointe Helbronner side (the Marbrées traverse in particular). It's too early for the Rochefort ridges (and Midi-Plan for that matter). For the Küffner, we'll have to wait for a period of high pressure and the settling/stabilisation of all this snow!

    The Montenvers train and cable car are still closed. Work is continuing and access is complicated. Motivated climbers can reach the Mer de Glace basin by taking the via corda alpina to Les Mottets, then the moraine path and finally the new access (via ferrata) under the gondola. Information and map on our dedicated news page. The refuges in the area are all unguarded.

    Some activity on the classics in the Tour basin (aiguille du Tour normal route and couloir de la Table, tête Blanche, Petite Fourche). The Albert 1er refuge is also opening this weekend! There's a risk that the Migot will be a little too busy and it's too early for the Forbes ridge. The refuge is always reached by the moraine path (dry up to 2400m). Skis or snowshoes are always more than useful for travelling above.

    The road to the Emosson dam is still closed (landslides in autumn). It is hoped that it will open by the end of the month, but nothing is certain.
  7. OHM Chamonix
    Here's some news on the eve of the weekend, with the return of the sun this morning!

    The mountains are all beautiful and white!

    A good 50 cm of snow has fallen recently at the Cosmiques hut. There was 45 cm at the Grands Mulets refuge (which fell without wind).

    Watch out for the risk of avalanches in the coming days!

    A brief overview of conditions in the mountains:

    Most lifts are closed. The Aiguille du Midi and the Flégère gondola remain open.

    Most of the refuges have switched back to unguarded mode. The Conscrits, Grands Mulets and Cosmiques huts are open! The Robert Blanc refuge opened today!

    Above 2000 m, it's winter! Skis (or even snowshoes for short approaches) are still the essential means of getting around. Skiing is still the main activity. There's a bit of mountaineering activity around the Aiguille du Midi and in the gullies (Triangle du Tacul), but things warm up quickly and fiercely at this time of year in other sectors (the E face of the Tacul, for example).

    Hikers should always stay below 2000m. You can find a list of possible hikes here. The Flégère gondola is open but the hikes are not practicable (Grand Balcon, Sud, Lac Blanc etc).

    Unless something changes, the Bellachat refuge will be closed this summer.

    Valley crags are climbable but higher up (Aiguilles Rouges, Mont Blanc massif: Envers, S face of Aiguille du Midi etc), there's still too much snow.

    Fine weather last weekend (Ascension) meant that there was plenty of activity in the mountains! It has since snowed again, but that has only improved conditions!

    Robert Blanc refuge (open since this morning): it’s a 5-minute walk from the Chalets des Lanchettes car park before you put your skis on! A good opportunity to visit this wild sector!

    Dômes de Miage: The refuge is open this weekend (one of the guardians went up today!). The latest news is that it's skis on after the Mauvais Pas once you are on the glacier. How long the snow bridges will last that cross the torrent at the bottom of the glacier is anyone’s guess: watch this space!

    The traverse of the Dômes was in good condition, as were all the routes in the area (Tondu, North faces).

    The Mettrier arete was tracked in good conditions last weekend. The traverse of the Aiguille de Bionnassay is possible if the weather is good and the snow has settled and stabilised.

    Mont Blanc via the Grands Mulets: From the tunnel, skis on around 1900m. From the Plan de l'Aiguille, it's all fine (follow the summer path that skirts the moraines of the Pélerins glacier from below). The Jonction can be reached from the bottom as well as the top. Last weekend, there were still several sections of ice on the N ridge of the Dôme: ice screws, good crampons and 2 ice axes on the menu!

    The conditions on the Bosses arete have improved: 1st bosse: on the crest then left across the ridge, beware there is a small crevasse to cross.

    "2nd bosse: on the crest

    "False" arete: go around a crevasse on the right then a small steep wall of snow/ice to reach the ridge. The ridge is fine and good.

    Rocher Tournette: ok! A bit of ice but not too bad, it's flat. Then the steep part, there's a bit of ice but patches of snow allow you to pass.

    Final ridge: all snow."

    The Corridors are still very easy, as is the N face of Mont Blanc.

     

    Aiguille du Midi: The ridge has been de-equipped. The Tacul was retracked this morning. The Trois Monts were climbed last weekend in good conditions. There was a slightly overhanging step to cross a rimaye halfway up Mont Maudit (may have changed with the new snow). The rimaye on the Col du Mont Maudit is completely filled in and the slope above is all snow! The traverse to the Col de la Brenva is in top form, as is the Mur de la Côte, which is covered in snow (that's rare!!!).

    The gullies on the East face of the Tacul were well exposed to the sun last week: rock falls, "It's not too bad" said the hut guardian. The Lafaille goulotte was in good condition with a very early start ("Rimaye goes all the way to the left. Belay is buried on the approach slope under metres of snow. For the descent, aim for another belay with a bolt on the left bank of the rocky spur below"). The Triangle was climbed on Ascension Day (last week end): Chéré - Mazeaud - Grisolle: conditions OK. La Negri should also be possible. For the time being, the approaches are more comfortable on skis and/or snowshoes, but the conditions can quickly settle down.

    Crossing the Pointes Lachenal and the Cosmiques ridge OK!

     

    Helbronner: the Skyway and the Torino hut (winter room only) are closed until 24 May. Activity on the Tour Ronde: normal route, Gervasutti couloir, N face. It looks like an attempt on the Kuffner ridge was made but they turned back (too much snow).

     

    Mer de Glace basin: The Montenvers train and gondola are closed. Work is in progress (dismantling of the temporary lift, the old telecabine and the old stairs). The site is closed (under the hotel: terraces and viewpoint inaccessible) as is access to the Mer de Glace until the 21st inclusive. The paths leading up to Montenvers (except the one between Les Planards and the Caillet buvette) will be closed from 20 to 31 May. Access will be possible for climbers via the via Corda. You can follow the closures on our website: https://www.chamoniarde.com/montagne/reglementation#

     

    The refuges are all in winter mode. Its an hours walk to get to the bottom of the new cable car. Access to the Couvercle hut is still via the central couloir (too much snow on the ladder access) but it's dry in the middle (scree). The Whymper couloir on the Aiguille Verte has been climbed in good conditions, as has the Pointe Isabelle. Here too, skis or snowshoes are essential.

     

    Argentière glacier: here too, access is difficult as the Pierre a ric (home piste) is closed (read the decree ). Otherwise, it's all white!

     

    Le Tour: access to the Albert 1er hut (winter mode) is via the moraine path. There is snow at the water intake at around 2000m. The classics are popular with skiers (Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche). The Migot spur at Le Chardonnet may be an option once it has stabilised.

     

    Some activity on Mont Dolent: (normal route, Gallet ridge).
  8. OHM Chamonix


    Well we have had two storms and an unexpected bit of sunshine inbetween this morning: It rained/snowed most of the day yesterday at altitude: let's hope that it will have finally stuck on some of the faces. This morning there was 20 cm at the Conscrits hut, 45-50 cm at the Grands Mulets, 20 cm at the Argentière hut (accumulations of 1m50 in places, numerous sluffs on N and E aspects). So watch out for the risk of avalanches this weekend!


     The Grands Montets ski area closes this Sunday evening, May 5 (large area closed from Monday May 6: Pierre à Ric, glacier de la Pendant, glacier de Lognan and des Rognons, col des Rachasses and Grands Montets). The Aiguille du Midi and Montenvers will remain open (the train will close on the evening of 12 May, with the Flégère gondola opening on Monday 13 May). The Skyway is closed until 24 May!

    The Albert 1er and Requin refuges (the latter is manned from 8 to 12 May) have switched to winter mode. The same will apply to the Argentière hut from Sunday.

    The Conscrits hut (open throughout May and continuously until September), the Cosmiques hut and the Couvercle hut (the warden sometimes comes down during periods of bad weather) remain open. The Plan Glacier refuge is due to open on 30 May.

    Find out more if you're going on the Chamonix-Zermatt haute-route, as some of the huts have also closed.


    We don't really have any information to give you about the high mountains, as the weather windows have been few and far between: "Fortune favours the bold". It's a real headache for skiers and especially for hut guardians, who have to juggle with cancellations... Skis (or snowshoes perhaps) are essential for getting around in the high mountains. Plan to walk a little to reach the cable car at the bottom of the Vallée Blanche.


    The walks currently available are listed in this document. We would remind you that most of the classic hikes (as well as multi-day treks) are still not practicable (and that this will be the case for the whole of May). There is still a lot of snow at high altitude, so there is a high risk of slips and falls, as well as the risk of getting lost (invisible paths and markings). Successive storms have caused many trees to fall, and there will be a succession of trail closures to carry out repairs (see list here).




  9. OHM Chamonix
    The mountains look so beautiful!

    Not much to report compared to our last update...this may change very quickly with the arrival of the föhn!

    Lifts still open are: Grands Montets, Aiguille du Midi, Montenvers and Skyway.

    From Sunday evening, the Albert 1er refuge will be closed, and the Requin refuge will be manned by reservation only. The winter rooms will be accessible .

    For hiking , there are no changes from our last newsletter.

    Albert 1er:

    Lots going on here. The Aiguille du Tour, Petite Fourche and Tête Blanche are still being done. The Chardonnet remains very dry, and there is rock at the exit of the Migot spur (not climbed).
    The Col Supérieur du Tour remains the best option if you are crossing the ridge.
    To return to Le Tour, descend the moraine towards the "cabane électrique" (electric hut).

    Argentière:

    Ski touring is still flavour of the month! All the cols are being done. The Aiguille d'Argentière and the Aiguille du Chardonnet are loaded.
    It felt pretty hot yesterday afternoon when the sun came out.
    A few purges were observed on the NE face of the Courtes. The Col des Cristaux rimaye looks complicated to cross.

    Couvercle:

    It's best to use the central couloir to reach the refuge.
    There is little activity in the sector due to bad weather. The couloirs and the rimayes are well filled. Be careful to adapt your route according to your skills.
    Pointe Isabelle looks magnificent and well-filled. You'll have to trail break.

    Cosmiques:

    The equipment on the arete will be dismantled over the next few days and the Z will be maintained until May 12.
    The whole sector is in good condition (as long as the wind doesn't blow!).
    The Contamines-Grisolle, Chéré, Gabarrou-Albinoni and Lafaille gullies are being done regularly, as well as the Cosmiques arête and the Pointes Lachenal. Approaches can be made on skis or snowshoes.
    Note to skiers: some steep slopes are hard, so think about using crampons, ropes etc
    The Tacul was attempted  yesterday, but they turned back at the last rimaye, which is difficult to cross  (see photo).

    Requin:

    Even if the wind has worked the snow, conditions in the Vallée Blanche are still very good, even from the Col d'Entrèves. The Salle à Manger is still going strong and the Combe du Requin is filled in. You can ski all the way to the gondola.
    The Brèche Puiseux is still being skied and is in good condition.

    Grands Mulets:

    The ascent of Mont Blanc is still in condition. The route remains the same: Jonction (higher path), Plateaux then Corridor.
    The N ridge of the Dôme du Gouter and the 2nd "bosse" are still icy. The mur de la cote is also hard, so crampons are needed. The N face has been skied, and conditions are starting to look good in the middle of the slope.

    Conscrits:

    Activity all over the place: on Mont Tondu, Col des Lanchettes and Armancette.
    The biggest difficulty is the Mauvais Pas, because of ice above it; this should improve with the arrival of the foehn, already present today.

  10. OHM Chamonix
    Here's a little snowy update following the return of winter as well as an overview of the routes we've reported on before, when the weather was milder. It's going to snow again tonight, and the wind has been working hard since yesterday: beware of the avalanche risk.
    Glacier conditions are generally good to very good.
    Lifts open: Grands Montets, Brévent (partially open, closed this Sunday), Aiguille di Midi, Montenvers and Skyway.
     
    Albert 1er:
     
    20 cm of snow fell without wind. The last few days have been busy, particularly on the Chamonix-Zermatt haute route. The Col des Écandies works well to get down to Champex. It's a 20-minute walk to Trient from Arpette. The Col Supérieur du Tour was retracked yesterday.
     
    The Col du Passon is still being done. There is no snow on the normal descent to Le Tour, so you either have to cross over to the Péclerey side or take the moraine path on the right bank (500 m descent on foot).
     
    With the exception of the Aiguille du Tour, there were no summits done this week. Before this wintery interlude, Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche were climbed. The more technical routes such as Aiguille du Chardonnet and Grande Fourche have not yet been climbed.
     
    Argentière:
     
    The Grands Montets lifts are open until May 5.
    The refuge telephone numbers are working.
    Few changes in the sector. Ski touring activity on the main cols (Chardonnet, Tour Noir, Argentière) and on the Aiguille d'Argentière (Glacier du Milieu) with no particular problems.
    Some skiers on the N-face ski slopes (Col des Cristaux, NE des Courtes), but watch out for avalanche risk over the next few days.
     
    Couvercle
     
    Access to the refuge is still via the central couloir.
    The Whymper couloir was done last weekend. For those wishing to ski it, as with any steep slope, especially those that take the sun, be sure to gauge the conditions/your abilities.
     
    Cosmiques:
     
     
    Since Wednesday, around 40/50 cm of snow has fallen with no wind, but no snow today, and the wind has picked up. It's pretty deep even with skis on!
     
    Lots of fresh snow (accumulations up to 1 m) in the Vallée Blanche, which is still going strong: the Salle à Manger is easy to cross, but there's a walk lower down (5 to 15 minutes). Watch out for the opening of two crevasses at the bottom of the Vallée Noire (and for conditions that can rapidly evolve towards hard/frozen snow + slopes swept by avalanche tracks/debris at this time of year).
    The Brèche Puiseux is still being done
     
    The Tacul and the Trois Monts were done last weekend (quite a few sections on foot, but watch out for avalanche risk soon). On Maudit, the route is more complicated than usual (see photo, a crevasse blocking the route halfway up requires you to climb steeply to the right). There were a few rockfalls below the Col du Maudit following last Sunday's heatwave, so some people turned back.
     
    Thursday's snow filled the gullies up (no activity since), so we'll have to keep an eye on how the wind develops over the next few days. There has been some activity on the Contmaine-Grisolle, the Gabarrou-Albinoni, the first pitch of the Supercouloir is dry, but the rest remains good (you have to start by the Gervasutti pillar) and the Lafaille goulotte (good overall conditions). Good overall conditions on the Tour Ronde (Gervasutti couloir, "normal route", N face a little dry but by eye looks OK).
     
    Grands Mulets:
    A total of 60 cm has fallen this week with little wind, so a new track will have to be put in. For the moment, the snow is of good quality, it's cold but today the breeze is getting stronger. Yesterday, a team attempted the N ridge of the Dôme du Gouter, but it's still very icy, so they turned back (a team did it last weekend, so bring good crampons and ice screws). Some are going to try the summit again tomorrow, via the Corridor route (which went well last weekend, but the Mur de la Côte is tricky to descend). The N face had been skied. Bosses ridge still technical (ice below and above Vallot).
     
    Conscrits:
     
    No one has been here since Sunday! About 15cm has fallen daily, and yesterday, Thursday, 60cm with a bit of a N wind. The few sunny spells today mean that we're back in winter. You need to carry skis up to the glacier after the Mauvais Pas; watch out for snow on the slabs and ice above for those who will be attempting to cross the Mauvais Pas over the next few days!
     
    The Miage traverse with descent on the Armancette (beware of the avalanche risk over the next few days, so opt for an out-and-back via the Trè-la-Tête glacier), the Tondu and the Col des Glaciers (watch out for the exit at the top, which is getting steeper) have all been completed. A team was seen finishing the Mettrier arête.  The NW face of the Tête Carrée was skied, as was the N face of the Trè-la-Tête (conditions were quite good, snow worked by the wind but no bad ice). For the Lée Blanche, it's better to bypass the ice on the left and join the ridge coming from Tré la Tête, rather than the NW ridge as shown in the topos.
     
    The Royal traverse was done last weekend (they put crampons on a lot). The snow was pretty hard, with bits of ice, and dry overall. No worries about finding the Dômes abseil to reach the Durier refuge, and the Bionnassay ridge was in good condition, with hard snow on the ascent to the Piton des Italiens.
     
     
    For hiking, the document published in the last update is still valid. Don't forget that at the start of the season, the trails are neither marked nor cleaned. Many trees are in the way following storms and torrential floods. It's sometimes difficult to get through, even more so with a mountain bike.