At last some decent weather, lets get out there!!!!
The mercury has been rising for the last 3 days and activity has been picking up. Early starts and early finishes may be needed! And don't forget your sunscreen! Here's an overview of the conditions.
Conscrits
Skis on after the mauvais pas. The Dômes traverse is tracked. The glacier is well filled in. The summit of the Dômes is bullet hard. The Armancette descent is hard snow at the top, but then the skiing is quite good. Skis off at the lake at 1700 m.
The 1st team of the season left this morning for the Durier.
The Tré la Tête was done yesterday (no further info).
Mont Tondu: several slides in the area due to the sand layer. A team on the Pain de Sucre earlier this week. The summit of Mont Tondu looks heavily corniced.
Grands Mulets
Regular activity on the Mont Blanc route. Access to the refuge via the Jonction (upper path). For those brave enough to set off on foot from the tunnel, access conditions are here. The north ridge of the Dôme is ice. Parties are therefore taking the Plateaux route. The Bosses ridge has some bits of blue ice (good crampons and good crampon technique needed). The North face has not been skied (hard snow).
Cosmiques
3 skiers set off this morning on the normal route of the Tacul and turned back below the serac in the middle of the face.
Teams on the Chéré (grey ice), on the Supercouloir. The Lafaille goulotte was climbed today in good conditions. The Modica Noury and the Gabarrou Albinoni (3rd belay damaged) were still going well 3 days ago. Conditions could change rapidly on the east face with the heat forecast.
By eye: small slide to the left of the Lachenal ridge. The traverse has been done on foot. The Cosmiques arête is being done a lot (access on foot also possible).
Apart from these two routes, all other approaches need to be on ski.
North face Aiguille du Midi
The gullies are dry. On Thursday, a team were seen finishing the Mallory, and this morning, another team tried and turned back: hard work to reach the foot of the couloir despite a night in the Plan de l'Aiguille winter room.
Vallée Blanche
Lots of people with this beautiful weather window. The snow is changeable all along the route and quickly becomes heavy as the hours go by. Its a 10 minute walk to reach the Mer de Glace gondola (last ascent at 4pm). Last train back: 17:00
Torino
The Aiguilles Marbrées and Aiguilles d'Entrèves traverses have been tracked. Approaching on foot is feasible, but snowshoes are still not a bad idea.
Tour Ronde: the Gervasutti couloir is in good condition, but the rimaye is a little tricky. The same applies to the normal route. The north face is very dry.
The Dent du Géant looks very dry.
Brèche Puiseux: very busy. The conditions of April 6 are still valid.
Couvercle
Access to the refuge is via the central couloir.
Activity on the Whymper couloir and Pointe Isabelle. The Aiguille Croulante couloir was skied a week ago.
Lots of people at the refuge this evening making the most of the w/e: so we should get some more info!
Argentière sector
No alpine activity in the sector. The faces are loaded. The gullies are dry. A team was seen in the Z on the Aiguille Verte (the Couturier is not in condition). A team has started today on the Lagarde couloir but is making very slow progress, no further info.
All the classic ski touring routes are tracked: Passon (ski de combat to get back to Le Tour) - Chardonnet - 3 cols - Tour Noir - d'Argentière.
The Aiguille d'Argentière was tracked by the Glacier du Milieu (see cahier de course on website) and the couloir en Y: rimaye OK, a pitch of mixed afterwards on the left bank.
The Barbey couloir was skied yesterday 11/04: good conditions overall, slightly wind affected/crust at the start. Then powder on a hard base and finally heavy powder/spring snow on the left bank.
The Col des Cristaux (ice at the top) and the NE face of Les Courtes were also skied.
The Chevalier couloir on the Petite Verte is in poor condition.
Beware of the moraines: with the expected heat, beware of possible rock falls.
Lift closure: Sunday evening (14/04) for the Planpraz/Brévent - Flégère/Index - Vallorcine / le Tour - col de Balme lifts. As a reminder, the lifts at Les Houches (Bellevue and Prarion) are already closed. So only the Grands Montets lifts will remain open.
Hiking: conditions are changing very slowly. The snow limit is around 1800 m on the south-facing slopes and 1600/1700 m on the north-facing slopes. Above these altitudes, snow cover is deep and extensive. Remember its not the time of year for the grands balcons nord and sud,and mountain lakes (whatever their colour!!). Be patient!
Two hours of portage before the Mauvais Pas. You can hear the water flowing from Tré la Grande, but for the moment its fine. The north face of Lée Blanche was skied on 20/03 in quite good conditions (no ice). The Dômes de Miage has been done there and back via the Col des Dômes. A team also did the traverse with descent via the Bérangère (watch out for cornices on the ridge to climb back to the summit). The Bérangère there and back is ok.
Grands Mulets
Pending the opening of the refuge scheduled for Easter weekend, here are the first observations in the sector: the lower track on the Jonction is blocked by a crevasse (ok 50 m. below). The higher Jonction path is fine for the moment (keep your skins on on the way up, and keep your ropes on on the way down). Watch this space. At the moment, the north ridge of the Gouter is ice not snow. A bit of activity on the Plateaux: nothing to report apart from a few serac falls, one of which crossed the Plateaux. From the slope below the Vallot, conditions become more technical, requiring a good crampon technique (and good crampons!): ice and "bullet hard" snow. The north face has not yet been skied.
Cosmiques
The snow was very wind affected, packed and covered with orange dust during Wednesday night's storm.
The arete Laurence and the Cosmiques arete are being steadily retracked (snow not too deep on the approach). The traverse of the Pointes Lachenal had been tracked earlier in the week in decent conditions.
As far as goulottes: the Chéré was climbed in " fossillised ice " conditions. Climbers on the Modica-Noury (see cahier de course on web site), the Super Couloir. M6 Solar was climbed in rather dry conditions.
Torino
The refuge has been open since March 1, but there are still few people in the sector. Some activity on the mixed routes of Le Flambeau. The Tour Ronde normal route was climbed on 19/03 with a descent on the Brenva glacier. The Maudit gullies are still very snow-laden.
There are still 4 equipped abseils at 30 m on the left bank of the old Toule stairs (at present, you can descend without abseiling).
Argentière
Little has changed since our last update, as the faces are still very loaded (only short weather windows). The Col des Cristaux and the NE face of the Courtes (very dry at the top) have been skied. No recent activity on the Aiguille d'Argentière, but no noticeable change (still at least one 20 m abseil when descending the Glacier du Milieu). The Y-shaped couloir narrows are ok. You will need to spend the night at the refuge, as things are heating up fast and furiously! The col du Passon moraine is starting to dry out (skis off twice to reach the village of Le Tour).
Albert 1er
Good snow conditions: the cols du Tour, supérieur du Tour, fenêtre de Saleinaz, col du Pissoir, col du Midi des Grands have all been tracked in good conditions. The Aiguille du Tour is in good condition on the normal route. The couloir de la Table has not been climbed (visually very beautiful, but the entrance is very loaded).
The Chardonnet has not yet had a visit and the gullies are quite dry. Petite Fourche also looks dry.
Aiguilles Rouges
The traverse from the Col des Crochues to the Col de Bérard is very tricky and exposed due to hard snow and avalanche debris. The crossing of the small bridge before the Bérard buvette is increasingly narrow.
The Dards, Belvédère and Beugeant cols heading towards Le Buet have all been done
Hiking conditions have hardly changed since our last update.
OHM Chamonix
La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report Wednesday 13th March
It's been a tough couple of weeks keeping track of the weather!
Weather conditions have been complicated, with alternating episodes of heavy snow and strong, even stormy winds at altitude, interspersed with a few fine but all too rare sunny days: you have to seize your opportunities as much as possible!
Ski touring is the main activity:
We have been tracking, retracking and retracking again between storms. Snow conditions are good above 2000 m. On southern aspects, the snow is softening very quickly on lower altitude mountains. In the high mountains, the cold snow is dense and alternates with wind- affected areas. Old and new windslabs are scattered around across the massif.
Activity has returned to all the classic cols of the Aiguilles Rouges: Crochues-Bérard, Dards, Bevédère, Beugeant and those of the Argentière basin: Passon, Chardonnet, 3 cols (a 60 m fixed rope has been installed at the Col du Chardonnet to descend to the Trient side), Tour Noir, Col d'Argentière.
The return track to the village of Le Buet (skis off at the Bérard waterfall) and to the village of Le Tour remain in boardercross mode.
Today, the Brèche Puiseux is being retracked. Tracks seen down from the Col du Tacul.
The marked Prarion and Trapette uphill ski touring tracks are no longer viable. The Lognan route is still being done despite a lack of snow lower down. The Le Tour up hill track (Caisets) is still popular, but the piste descent is shut.
Goulotte activity is becoming marginal.
The Chéré goulotte was done in relatively dry conditions.
A major serac collapse occurred yesterday on the north face of the Tacul (see photo).
One team bailed at the foot of the Gabarrou Albinoni (deep snow on the approach), but from the look of things, conditions were good in the goulotte, as well as on the neighbouring Modica-Noury, Super couloir and goulotte Lafaille. Another team also bailed on the very dry Pélissier goulotte (Pointe Lachenal).
One team left this morning for Ice is Nice on the back of the Requin.
No alpine activity so far in the Argentière basin.
The north faces are well loaded at the bottom and rather dry at the top. Heavy accumulations at the bottom of the basin and towards the Aiguilles Rouges du Dolent.
At the Conscrits refuge, no activity since last weekend's opening. The snowpack in this sector has also been very wind affected (lots of wind slab). The Tré la tête refuge opens this weekend, March 16, as does the Albert 1er refuge.
Hiking conditions are little changed.
All the marked snowshoe tracks at the bottom of the valley can be enjoyed on foot without any problems, as can the petit balcons north and south, access to the Floria and Chapeau chalets (open until mid-May), the Dard waterfall, the Cerro chalets and the Bossons glacier.
Following a very strong fohn episode on the night of March 9 to 10 (gusts of over 90 km/h in the valley bottom), you may find some trees across certain paths. Thank you for your feedback.
You'll have to walk up to around 1800 m before putting on your snowshoes to reach the Loriaz refuge (open and guarded) and the Chailloux chalets.) The bottom of the Bérard valley has very hard snow, and crampons are a good idea before putting on snowshoes.
The marked snowshoe tracks at altitude in the Prarion, Flégère and Tour-Vallorcine ski areas all have good snow conditions.
Contact us before you set off to find out if the route you are planning is suitable for snowshoeing, as the appearances from the valley floor can be deceptive!
So much for a general overview of the Chamonix valley.
Now it's your turn to tell us what you find!
OHM Chamonix
La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report, 23 February 2024.
Some quick bits of information before the weekend!
We’ve had a decent drop of snow at altitude from Thursday’s storm.
There has been a lot of rain at valley level and the cross country pistes are closed for the time being. On the other hand the Mer de Glace grotto opened last Saturday 24th February.
The Cosmiques hut opened last weekend.
The rain snow limit has been fluctuating around 1800m to 2000 m, dropping temporarily to 1500m (a few centimetres of snow).
Above that there’s been an average of 30 to 50 cm of fresh snow at 2000 to 2500 m. Around a metre at 3800 m. Very strong winds at all altitudes have been moving the snow around resulting in some big wind slabs.
The snowfall is obviously welcome and we should be able to make some great tracks.
Today’s avalanche control (PIDA) resulted in some big releases and therefore great caution will be needed in your choice of routes this weekend. See photos on the website from the Envers du Plan and Vallée Noire.
Gullies will be heavily loaded for the next few days.
Not much change concerning walking and snow shoeing routes since our last update on the 15th February.
Please do not hesitate to consult us about your plans, whatever the activity and give us feedback on what you get up to.
OHM Chamonix
La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report 15th February 2024.
A very mild start to the half term holidays. There was a little snow last weekend (especially at higher altitudes) but some real snowfall would be welcome... !!!!
The snow cover remains good above 1800 m, but below that it’s poor!
So there's plenty of snow in the ski areas (except on the way back to the resort). At this time of the year, we would like to remind you more than ever to ski with caution, moderating your speed and controlling your skis and your direction! Just a reminder: it is strictly forbidden to skin up the slopes.
All the classic ski touring routes are popular (always keep your ski crampons close by). The light snowfalls on Sunday and Monday have eased conditions a little. Departures and returns without lifts remain very dry: skis on at the bridge on the Roman road at Les Contamines, at 1650 m below the Loriaz refuge; the bottom of the Buet valley is still very sporty (little snow, avalanche debris to cross).
Nothing special to report as far as glaciers go either. The boardercross at the bottom of the Col du Passon is no problem for good skiers (one stream to cross). The Col du Chardonnet is easy to cross (NE-facing couloir snowy, rimaye filled with snow). Vallée Blanche/Brèche Puiseux sector (good general conditions): you can ski to the new Mer de Glace cable car (last ascent to Montenvers at 4pm!).
All the variants of the vallée blanche have been done. The salle à manger is fine but there are a few visible holes at the entrance and exit. The Pierre à Béranger and the central couloir (access to the Talèfre basin) look OK.
The snowfall at altitude (30-40 cm at the Aiguille du Midi) put a slight halt to the gully activity (while it purged and cleaned up) but didn't change the conditions much either. On the whole, it's dry (often quite dry and more technical than the ratings given in the guidebooks), although there's still plenty to climb in some areas (we have had no feedback since the start of the week and the snow): Pointe du Domino (Petit Viking); Triangle de la Verte (Ravanel-Frendo + Claire Chazal fairly dry, La Pépite in quite good conditions); Mini Blast still a victim of its success, cornice at the top of Rebuffat-Terray purged; E face of Tacul (Gabarrou-Albinoni, Modica_Noury, Supercouloir, Lafaille. ...); Requin sector (Sorenson-Eastman: initial section difficult to protect, moraine tricky, Ice is Nice: lots of threatening snow).
The ice climbing season didn't really happen this year. No feedback, but still a bit of activity on the left bank of the Argentière glacier (Déferlante, Mini Couloir; it's over for EMHM) and at Cogne.
Given the low snowfall at low altitude, there is exceptional hiking just about everywhere below 1600m. Higher up, it's not possible to do anything other than follow the signposted snowshoe trails or the Chalets de Chailloux (from La Flatière) or the Chalets de Loriaz! You can't get to Montenvers on foot... or via the Plan de l'Aiguille!
OHM Chamonix
Here's some news as we approach a period of high pressure!
The snow cover is exceptional above 1800 m, but below that it's terrible... There was a bit of snow in places last night at high altitude (Argentière glacier , Vallée Blanche).
The classic ski touring routes are popular. Don't forget your couteaux/harscheisen, as the snow is often hard on all aspects (you need to be a good skier). Also beware of the risk of falls/slides both off and on piste. You will be walking/ carrying skis until you leave the woods if you dont start from a ski lift (Roman road in les Contamines, Plaine Joux, la Flatière, le Buet/Couteray, Finhaut).
Bits and pieces: The Bérard valley has thin snow cover and also its been devastated by avalanches, so it's not very pleasant! The same goes for the Passon descent towards Le Tour. A large avalanche has gone down the Pétoudes gully (Trient), which should be avoided for the time being!
Bullet hard sections on the descent of the Brévent/Cornu towards the Pont d'Arlevé.
The three Cols is in good condition (apart from the bottom of the Passon, see above). The descent couloir on the N side of the Col du Chardonnet is well filled in..
The Vallée Blanche is being done every day. The Aiguille du Midi arête is equipped (Z not in place). Glaciers generally well filled. The bottom of the Vallée Noire is very icy. The Requin refuge opened its doors on Saturday 27 January.
You can ski as far as the old staircase. The cable car is due to open soon, so keep your fingers crossed. In the meantime, head back up to Montenvers via the old stairs and the path. The descent to Chamonix is out of the question (the bottom of the glacier is chaotic). Brèche Puiseux has been tracked today: expect 2 abseils of 30 m + exit to the right under the Grandes Jorasses at the bottom of the Mont Mallet glacier and not via the couloir).
Gully climbing is back on the agenda. No news from the Argentière basin. The Couturier looks very icy.
Some teams on Mini-Blast (good conditions) and Rebuffat-Terray: fairly dry conditions + beware there's a big cornice at the brèche overlooking the whole route... Some teams also on Beyond Good and Evil but it's very dry.
A few climbers on the Chéré but it’s pretty dry, especially the first slope below the start (https://www.skaping.com/chamonix/aiguille-du-midi). You can climb the Modica-Noury and the Gabarrou-Albinoni but beware of (over)crowding. It might be worth looking a little further afield, even if it's generally dry and we have no information (Supercouloir, Lafaille, Valeria, Ice is Nice; Pellissier: dry).
It won't be a winter to remember for ice climbing. The hot weather finished off the few routes that existed, particularly around Cogne. A few ice climbs are still possible on the rive gauche of the Argentière glacier.
OHM Chamonix
Get ready to ski! Here's a brief report on the conditions.
If you want to get away from the grey plains conditions here are great with cold temperatures, anticyclonic conditions and fresh snow above 1800m.
On the whole, the snow is still soft and pleasant to ski in (apart from the areas affected by the wind), but it is starting to get a little wetter on the southern slopes.
Ski touring :
All the Aiguilles Rouges classics have been tracked
(Crochues-Bérard, Pointe Alphonse Favre, Buet, Col des Dards, Col du Belvédère, Col de Beugeant). The Berard valley exit is much improved (skis off once or twice).
Lots of activity around Bel Oiseau - Fenestral (short ski carry at the start).
In the Argentière basin, lots of activity on the Col du Passon (you can ski down to Le Tour) despite a few potholes. Col du Tour Noir, Col d'Argentière also possible. All the Grands Montets lifts are shut today (Saturday) because of a technical problem.
Valley ice climbing:
In the Chamonix valley, you can climb on the rive gauche of the Argentière glacier in the "Dents de la Mer" sector (Déferlante, Minicouloir, Home wet Home). On the rive droite, the Mur des Jumelles looks doable (not yet checked).
The Bérard icefall is not yet accessible.
Outside the Chamonix valley, the ice at Le Reposoir, Samoens/Giffre has not yet formed. Cogne is the spot of the moment with an interesting choice of lines.
The place to be at the moment is Cogne.
Ice and Mixed:
Teams on Mini Blast, Rebuffat Terray,Tout Schuss. No recent news from the East face of the Tacul. The Cosmiques arête has been tracked in winter conditions. The lines behind the Requin look like they are building up.
We look forward to feedback if you go up there.
Gourmet randonneurs:
the Chalet du Chapeau is open every day except on category 3 and above days (look at avalanche forecast). Snowshoes are not necessary, but a pair of crampons will make progress more comfortable, especially on the descent.
Remember that the Loriaz refuge is also open (booking required).
Fondazione Montagna Sicura - Courmayeur
Funivie Monte Bianco, in agreement with Courmayeur Town Council after consultation with the competent technicians and institutions, and based on official technical reports provided by independent experts, Funivie Monte Bianco announces the immediate
CLOSURE of the “TOULA STAIRCASE” and its consequent PROHIBITED USE
Funivie Monte Bianco will be taking concrete measures to prevent use of the staircase and will provide widespread notification of this closure and prohibition.
Fondazione Montagna Sicura - Courmayeur
The mountains begin to wear their winter clothes. The rapid disturbances of the past week have deposited a good amount of snow that will be fed by new precipitation from Thursday.
The Functional Center of the Valle d'Aosta Region indicates in detail that large-scale general circulation is characterized, until tomorrow, by the passage of cooler air from northern Europe, and generally dry and quite sunny weather. Starting Thursday, the entry of an active disturbance from France will bring frequent rain and snow until next Monday at least.
The general snow conditions are not yet sufficient for a good ski mountaineering activity, but the layers of snow that have just fallen should be a good starting point for the upcoming season. As far as climbing is concerned, activity has now mainly shifted to low altitudes and warm regions (Finale, Albenga, etc.): many low-altitude structures in the valley (including cliffs but also long routes) can offer very pleasant conditions if climbed in the sunlight and in the absence of wind. Finally, in terms of hiking, the trails are covered with snow above 1,800 meters. Under that altitude, the southern slopes can always be pleasantly frequented.
Do not forget that the Skyway Monte Bianco is closed for testing and periodic reviews, while the Cervinia area is open from Plan Maison, with the connection to active Switzerland.
Fondazione Montagna Sicura - Courmayeur
The weekend was very favourable to mountain activities with sunny days and pleasant temperatures.
On the other hand, this week looks rather disturbed because of the currents of high altitude, which allow the passage of more humid air (passage already between tonight and tomorrow morning). The weather in western Alps will be changing and characterized by alternating dry and sunny periods and grey periods with very light rain.
In the high mountains, snow was less abundant than it seemed at the beginning: in the sector of Pointe Helbronner, on the glacier, the disturbances did not leave more than 20/30 cm of snow compressed and worked by the wind, while frost has concreted the walls. The sun quickly cleared the rock facing south, but snow is still present on the northern slopes. For the moment, the ice is not yet very well formed, so it is still too early to consider the chutes; climbs in mixed (or even new lines) have already been carried out, but they suppose an excellent capacity of evaluation and management under ephemeral conditions. Strung on the Aiguille d'Entrêves, on the Marbrée, on the Dente del Gigante and on the Kuffner (for this we have no feedback on the specific conditions).
Sometimes, approaches have been made on skis, but for that, it is recommended to pay the greatest attention and the greatest caution: many holes are covered by the snow extended by the wind and are not visible. It is necessary to get into proper coordination (distances) to manage the risk.
Funivie Monte Bianco, in agreement with Courmayeur Town Council after consultation with the competent technicians and institutions, and based on official technical reports provided by independent experts, Funivie Monte Bianco announces the immediate
CLOSURE of the “TOULA STAIRCASE” and its consequent PROHIBITED USE
Funivie Monte Bianco will be taking concrete measures to prevent use of
the staircase and will provide widespread notification of this closure and
prohibition.
The mountains begin to wear their winter clothes. The rapid disturbances of the past week have deposited a good amount of snow that will be fed by new precipitation from Thursday.
The Functional Center of the Valle d'Aosta Region indicates in detail that large-scale general circulation is characterized, until tomorrow, by the passage of cooler air from northern Europe, and generally dry and quite sunny weather. Starting Thursday, the entry of an active disturbance from France will bring frequent rain and snow until next Monday at least.
The general snow conditions are not yet sufficient for a good ski mountaineering activity, but the layers of snow that have just fallen should be a good starting point for the upcoming season. As far as climbing is concerned, activity has now mainly shifted to low altitudes and warm regions (Finale, Albenga, etc.): many low-altitude structures in the valley (including cliffs but also long routes) can offer very pleasant conditions if climbed in the sunlight and in the absence of wind. Finally, in terms of hiking, the trails are covered with snow above 1,800 meters. Under that altitude, the southern slopes can always be pleasantly frequented.
Do not forget that the Skyway Monte Bianco is closed for testing and periodic reviews, while the Cervinia area is open from Plan Maison, with the connection to active Switzerland.
The weekend was very favourable to mountain activities with sunny days and pleasant temperatures.
On the other hand, this week looks rather disturbed because of the currents of high altitude, which allow the passage of more humid air (passage already between tonight and tomorrow morning). The weather in western Alps will be changing and characterized by alternating dry and sunny periods and grey periods with very light rain.
In the high mountains, snow was less abundant than it seemed at the beginning: in the sector of Pointe Helbronner, on the glacier, the disturbances did not leave more than 20/30 cm of snow compressed and worked by the wind, while frost has concreted the walls. The sun quickly cleared the rock facing south, but snow is still present on the northern slopes. For the moment, the ice is not yet very well formed, so it is still too early to consider the chutes; climbs in mixed (or even new lines) have already been carried out, but they suppose an excellent capacity of evaluation and management under ephemeral conditions. Strung on the Aiguille d'Entrêves, on the Marbrée, on the Dente del Gigante and on the Kuffner (for this we have no feedback on the specific conditions).
Sometimes, approaches have been made on skis, but for that, it is recommended to pay the greatest attention and the greatest caution: many holes are covered by the snow extended by the wind and are not visible. It is necessary to get into proper coordination (distances) to manage the risk.